Approx 3 wks ago our boiler was serviced and we were told one of the baffle plates was burnt right through and had a hole in it and another one was bent.We were also told it needed a new pump.These were fitted plus 2 other parts we can't remember the names of.Boiler was switched back on and seemed to be working ok.30 minutes after repair man left boiler went to lockout.Took front panel off and reset it and it ran alright. Boilers been working all ok for the last 3 weeks as long as the front panel is left off as another couple of attempts to put the front panel on result in lockout each time. Been waiting for repair man to return to find out what this problem is as he doesn't know, however tonight the boiler sounded as though it was going but no heat at all as the chimney was stone cold and no heat in the radiators.

The boiler is 6 years old. Well the guy turned up late this morning with a right old attitude claiming he'd even called Worcester Bosch and said they were very unhelpful, which we know to be a lie as we phoned them on friday afternoon and they were extremely helpful and said they would be happy to talk him through some things when he was next round.He tried a new photo cell and it just kept going to lock out and was adamanat the settings were all correct??

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Then started saying something about a burner?? Basically when questioned by us this morning he's thrown a wobbly and stormed off saying get some else to fix it which basically means we'll have to pay again which to be honest is pretty. He's left now refusing to come back and sort it out!!

Checked on the Ofstec site and it appears he's not registered Desperatley now trying to get someone else to come out a.s.a.p!!! What the boiler man should do, once the thing is running, is to check the oil pump pressure (somewhere between 100 and 140 psi) and then do a smoke test.

If this proves to be ok he can then do a flue gas analysis to determine what the CO2 content is (typically between 11 and 12%). He should then adjust the burner air door to achieve this figure. Has your system a balanced flue? It sounds as if it does, because as you say, leaving the front off helps it a bit.is this the front of the boiler casing, or the aluminium box that the burner is housed in?

Can you tell if the burner fails during a burning cycle, or simply doesn't ignite from a normal start? What the boiler man should do, once the thing is running, is to check the oil pump pressure (somewhere between 100 and 140 psi) and then do a smoke test. If this proves to be ok he can then do a flue gas analysis to determine what the CO2 content is (typically between 11 and 12%). He should then adjust the burner air door to achieve this figure. Has your system a balanced flue? It sounds as if it does, because as you say, leaving the front off helps it a bit.is this the front of the boiler casing, or the aluminium box that the burner is housed in? Can you tell if the burner fails during a burning cycle, or simply doesn't ignite from a normal start?

When you press the lock out lamp switch in, this is what should happen. The burner motor starts and purges the flue with fresh air for a few sec, then the ignition spark starts (maybe you can hear a slight buzzing) then the oil is switched on electrically by a solenoid on the pump. The photocell monitors the flame - if it can see light, it keeps the oil on, and the ignition spark ceases. If the flame fails the photocell will attempt a relight - if nothing happens, then lock out occurs. Free Print To Pdf Software Download there.