Keihin Cr Special Carburetor Tuning Manual Woodworkers

Carbkie.html, Keihin FCR Carb Tuning Procedures Keihin FCR tuning manual Version 3.3 By Many thanks to Marc Salvisberg, founder of, for teaching me the finer points of using dynamometers and tuning carburetor equipped engines. I'm sure he still disagrees with some of what's here (my dislike of changing float level, and even suggesting that one use a lambda sensor, for examples.), but this version of my FCR tuning manual is a lot better than the ones I wrote before I did my stint as a technician at Factory. Thank you, Marc. After attending some AMA road races over the last few years as a dynamometer operator for Factory Pro Tuning and mechanic for, and having the opportunity to talk with lots of racers, I've learned to my absolute horror and amazement that you people are actually *using* the information on this page to tune your race bikes. God help you all. Someone asked me for info on using a Dynojet inertial dyno to tune a bike equipped with FCRs.

This is the base guideline about tuning your Keihin. The carburetor pictured in the exploded view uses. Consult your owners manual for the. This is the base guideline about tuning your Keihin. The carburetor pictured in the exploded view uses. Consult your owners manual for the.

Since I'm all too aware of the fact that most people don't have access to a proper brake dynamometer and an exhaust gas analyzer, I put together an. Before you do anything, MAKE SURE THE CARBS ARE CLEAN. Tear them completely apart (don't forget to remove the idle mixture screws), blast everything with carb cleaner, and blow out all passages and jets with compressed air. If you neglect this critical step, don't be surprised when, after fourteen jet changes, you find that a shred of fuel line or bits of rust from the gas tank (yes, even on YOUR bike, even with a fuel filter) had gotten lodged in some passage or another, causing the 'jetting' problem you were trying to solve. If you're running a ram-air setup, and the carbs don't sit inside the airbox, you'd better route the float bowl vents to the inside of the airbox or you'll never in a million years get the thing working properly.

If the ram-air works at all, as soon as the bike gets rolling along faster than a walking pace the mixture will go dead lean. Install Windows Media Center Radio Tuner. Solar Radiation Data Handbook 2 on this page. If you're running a ram-air setup, and using gravity feed rather than a pump to move the fuel from the tank to the carbs, you'd better route the fuel tank vent to the inside of the airbox or you'll wonder why it keeps sputtering at the end of long straights. 160 mph worth of air pressure in the float bowls and only ambient pressure in the tank will seriously slow down or even stop the fuel coming in from the tank, and the float bowls will run dry. You need to put airbox pressure into the tank to keep the fuel flow constant at various speeds. And I'm not kidding about the float valve seat sizes. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to get the scoop. I didn't come up with the chart.